Monday, 29th Jan, 2007

Dongola, Sudan - Rest Day

Glorious morning! Woke up in our empty zoo (that's right, we're sleeping in what used to be the Dongola zoo!) very early. By 7:00, just as it was getting light, left camp and walked into Dongola. The town was waking up. Guess what? My old Arabic from the days I used to live in Sudan is coming back, naturally. An amazing thing happened. After walking about half an hour, I came to a place where they were making donutty things (very delicious!) and tea. By this time, I was in a busy area, so I sat to drink a tea, have some donutty things, and watch the people. I pointed to the tea and smiled and said, "chai". No "please", no "may I have some", none of that because I couldn't. Just "chai". The man said, "b'laben?" Immediately, without thinking, I realized he was asking if I wanted milk. Just as immediately, without thinking, I answered, "b'laben, ma sukhar" (with milk, no sugar). I said it as though I'd said it 1,000 times before. Which, when I think about it, I may have said it 1,000 times, back when I used to live here. There used to be a tea lady that I used to drink tea from, at least once/day, sometimes more, and I always came with, "b'laben, ma sukhar". I stunned myself, though, when I said it just this morning, it was like a voice from the past. And I said it without even thinking.

Here is the best part. When I went to pay, he wouldn't let me. I said, "nothing?" He said, "nothing". Another customer had paid for me. THE SUDANESE ARE THE GREATEST! (Have I already mentioned that?)

Then I went back to camp, around 11:00, to get my bike and take it to a bike mechanic, and get my clothes, and find somebody to wash them. Guess what I found? All my fellow friends, washing their own clothes, and washing/oiling/tuning their own bikes!!! My God? I don't understand it. Why isn't everybody else as lazy as I am? This is a REST day. Also, by going off with my bike and clothes to find a clothes washer and a bike washer/tuner, it was so adventurous. Finding the bike place was a real adventure. Then, when I got there, trying to get across what I wanted done with the bike was even more adventure. The more I tried to explain, with my non-Arabic, and his non-English, the more locals gathered around. I said, "I don't just want it cleaned, I want it tuned. Like a car. Vroom, vroom!" That got everybody to saying, "vroom, vroom!" O.k., try again... Then, I was also hoping they might have tires and inner tubes the right size. You may remember, from a previous posting, that I am lacking in spare parts, and won't get more till Ethiopia. I've already had 3 flats, repaired them all, only have 2 patches left, and my inner tube is getting a little worse for wear. Well, trying to get tires and inner tubes was exciting (though, sad to say, unsuccessful). I had them grabbing tires from all over the place and trying them - too big, too small... All the onlookers, of course, giving their advice. Well, I assume, giving advice, talking enthusiastically at any rate. One kid ran off, and came back with another tire. Still no fit. Eventually, I gave up. At least, the bike's now being cleaned and re-oiled, and the clothes are being washed, while I wander about town having a grand time. I don't quite understand the non-laziness of our group. This whole bike thing, admittedly, may not have taken any less time than cleaning/tuning the bike myself, but it sure was a lot more adventurous. Doing it yourself is just ... work! Haha.

Guess what I saw in the middle of town, while coming over to this internet place? A camel! A camel in the middle of the desert, walking along in a caravan, you might expect that. But this is a town! Lots of cars and everything. And a camel! Got a picture of it.

Really sorry, but still not uploading photos. My dear brother tried to explain how to do it. Unfortunately, his first step was, "1.) Get the pictures out of the camera and onto the hard drive." I wasn't able to complete that step. Tried. I hooked my camera up to the USB port on this computer, turned it on, and looked at it. But nothing happened, it just sat there, looking pretty. I do promise, however, that I'm going to ask somebody at camp how to do it and upload lots of pictures at the next opportunity - which will be in 6 days, when we reach Khartoum. Come what may, you will see pictures when we reach Khartoum!!