Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Saturday, 12th May 2007

To: Matugga

Yeeeahhhhh! Made it to Matugga! That is almost home! I have one more day (only) of riding to do, to get to Entebbe. I will stay here in Matugga this week and visit with my good friend, Nalongo. She is Annet's sister (Annet, who came visiting a couple of months ago, when we were in Arusha). Next Friday or Saturday, I'll ride the remaining distance to Entebbe, which I think is only about 70 or 75 km.

Here is a picture of a very fancy sign that I saw on my last day in Tanzania, 3 days ago. I forgot to post it then. Isn't it fancy?

--------------- TODAY ------------- TOTAL
Cycled --------- 84 km (53 mi) -----
Lift ------------ 45 km (28 mi) ----
Total ----------- 129 km (81 mi) ---

Friday, 11th May 2007

To: Masaka

Don't know how, but these things just happen. Twice in 2 days, I've managed to get other people pushing my bike up steep hills. In my defense, it wasn't my idea this time. I was approaching Masaka from the Rakai District side. Much to my surprise (I think I've only ever approached Masaka from this side in a car before, so I never noticed), there is a big huge whopping HILL on this approach! I surprised even myself by actually peddling up half that hill. But then I stopped and started pushing. Only pushed a few minutes before these 3 nice secondary student girls came along.

One of the girls said to me (I SWEAR, it was not my idea!), "Give us the bike. We will push." Well, what could I do? She was ordering me!! So, here is a photo of my girl friends, pushing the bike up that hill. You can't tell from this photo, but the hill really was steep - really!

Had a really fun night, playing pool in the two pubs, across the road from the White Nile Inn, where I stayed. Can't believe it! Made it to Masaka. Wow, this is getting more and more exciting! So close to home.

-------------- TODAY ------------ TOTAL
Cycled -------- 51 km (32 mi) ---- 5,329 km (3,337 mi)
Lift ----------- 0 --------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total --------- 51 km (32 mi) ---- 7,989 km (5,105 mi)
In Saddle ----- 4 hours ---------- 361 hours 19 min
Ascended ------ 1,040 feet ------- 94,945 feet

Thursday, 10th May 2007

To: Kyotera, Uganda

After riding about 28 kilometers or so, got to the trading center of Ssanje. While stopping and looking for a chipati for breakfast, I came across Sarah and Aaron, two peace corps volunteers. Sarah happens to live in Ssanje, and works at an orphanage. Aaron was visiting. They were super friendly and invited me over to Sarah's place for breakfast!

After the leisurely 2-hour breakfast stop, I continued, on back roads, from Ssanje to Rakai. Rakai I knew would be a bit out of my way, but I wanted to pass through anyway, just to see it. So, got off the main road and onto a dirt road. Very nice for a while, but then ... a minor detail got in my way ... a mountain! I'm meaning to call Sarah and ask if she knew about this mountain between Ssanje and Rakai and failed to mention it. Made me miss Jack from TDA. I'm sure he would have remembered to mention it, in the rider meeting. Although, come to think of it, I'm not real sure what I would have done with the info, other than dread it and think about it. This way, I just got to be surprised!

So, this mountain was very steep in parts and I even had to get off the bike and push. (It reminds me - I need to write to the Uganda Mountain Authorities and talk to them about switch-back roads.) At one point, however, while pushing my bike up a very, very, very steep section, 4 kids started following me from a distance. They were giggling. They were actually slightly annoying, but I had to tell myself, "Cool it, Leigh Anne. Those kids aren't doing anything wrong. They are just curious." And then, all of a sudden, I had an idea. (Ding! Brilliant idea alert!) I thought, if they are having so much fun, just watching me push the bike, just THINK how much MORE fun they could have, if they got a chance to push it themselves! So, I motioned to the biggest boy (who looked to be about 9 or 10 years old) and held out my bike for him and asked if he'd like to have a go at pushing.

The boy said, "Oh, yes!" and took my bike and started pushing. His 3 friends, however, were not about to let him have all the fun. So, they also grabbed parts of the bike and helped push. I walked up behind them. Here are a couple of photos of these 4 kids, having a great time, pushing my bike up a very long and steep hill. O.k., felt a bit like Tom Sawyer, but no harm done, and everybody was happy.

Finally, after going down this mountain, and then over another one, I came across a beautiful sight! Is that Rakai I see? Most importantly, are those electricity lines I see? Am I going to get a cold soda??? YES! Other than the cold soda, however, Rakai did not have much to offer. I hung around for about an hour, chatting with the girl who seemed in charge of this place I was sitting at. Then, headed off for Kyotera, where I spent the night.

I love Kyotera!! Pool tables galore! Played for several hours tonight and had fun.

---------------- TODAY ------------ TOTAL
Cycled --------- 75 km (47 mi) ---- 5,278 km (3,305 mi)
Lift ------------- 0 --------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total ---------- 75 km (47 mi) ----- 7,938 km (5,073 mi)
In Saddle ------ 5 hours 41 min ---- 357 hours 19 min
Ascended ------- 1,813 feet -------- 93,905 feet

Wednesday, 9th May 2007

To: Mutukula (Uganda!)

Woke up this morning to an absolutely beautiful sunrise on the boat. Arrived in Bukoba at 7:30 and saw a beautiful coastline. (See photos in yesterday's post.) The cliffs reminded me of a place I've been to in France and I can't remember the name of the place but I think it started with an E, and Monet did some paintings there. Or it may have started with an F, anyway it started with a letter that has lots of straight lines and right angles. There's even a little chapel here on the cliffs of Bukoba. That place in France that starts with an E or an F, it also had a little chapel.

By the time I got through the port and had my bike put together, it was 8:30 and I thought, "Aahhhh, I'm on my way." I rode 8/10 of a kilometer and stopped. How could I have passed this spot? You take a look at this picture. A neat little hotel, right on the beach. Am now sitting at a table on that beach, enjoying the view and the fresh morning.

O.k., o.k., I promise myself that the next time I see the most beautiful and pristine place, I'll ride right past, without looking back. Besides, I have to make it to Kakindu today (unless I don't).

Evening: Woo hoooo! Made it all the way to Mutukulu, on the Uganda side of the Tanzania/Uganda border! After the slow beginning, I was wishing I was riding with Rachel (from TDA) today. She'd have been proud of how far I went without stopping. After that first stop (8/10 of a km from the ferry landing), I didn't stop again until 47 more km had been racked up. Rachel would've been happy as we pointed to place after place and kept saying, "Naahhh, keep going." Just to show, here are two of the great looking spots, that I just passed right up!

It feels good to be in Uganda. Very good. Had supper at a little local restaurant place. Sat at a table and chatted with a few people who live in Mutukulu and work at the border crossing. I ate matooke for the first time in 4 months! It was great.

--------------- TODAY ------------- TOTAL
Cycled -------- 88 km (55 mi) ----- 5,203 km (3,258 mi)
Lift ------------ 0 ----------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total --------- 88 km (55 mi) ----- 7,863 km (5,026 mi)
In Saddle ----- 5 hours 42 min ---- 351 hours 38 min
Ascended ------ 1,138 feet -------- 92,082 feet

Tuesday, 8th May 2007

To: Bukoba, Tanzania (by boat)

It is official. I am a nerd. This may have been suspected before, but now it is official. I spent 30 minutes of my boat voyage from Mwanza to Bukoba (nice voyage, by the way) trying to figure out the probability that the dealer in blackjack would go bust if his first card is a 6. This is in a game where he has to hit on 16, and has to stop on 17. I didn't do the whole thing because it turns into too many scenarios once you get up to 5 or more cards to make the bust. But, with just 3 cards, the prob of a bust is (32 + 7 + 6 + 5 + 4)/(169) = 54/169, which is approximately 4/13, or slightly less than 1/3. If we allow the dealer to go bust with 4 cards, then we only add a small amount to the probability of the bust, and the bust probability is still slightly less than 1/3. At this point, even I got bored with the project and decided not to calculate the scenarios of going bust on 5, 6, or 7 cards. However, these are very small probabilities and would not add much. Therefore, the total probability of going bust, when the dealer's first card is a 6, in only approximately 1/3.

Why is this crucially important, so important that I had to work on the problem on the boat, rather than look at the water? Remember the guy last night who kept advising his friends about when to hit and when to stay in blackjack? Well, one of his cardinal rules, as I remember, was that, if the dealer has a 6 showing, and you can't go bust with one more card, then you should ALWAYS double up. Double up means that you double your bet and you get one more card. I remember thinking at the time that the rule seemed a bit faulty, but I couldn't calculate the whole thing there, while sitting at the table.

However, I now think I've shown that this is not a good rule. For example, if your 2 cards are a 3 and a 2, then, no matter what, your third card will give you a score of 16 or less. This means that, no matter what, the dealer has a 2/3 chance of beating you! You should not double up on that. Thank you. Crucially important. Of course, I now feel slightly like that kid in that novel entitled something-something-curious-incident-something, where the kid does stuff like counts the spots on cows, and he solves some fancy maths problem. He wants to put the solution as a chapter in his book, but his teacher convinces him to just make it an appendix, on the grounds that not too many people would be interested. I now suspect that this entire entry should have been an appendix to my blog, but that's life.

When we arrived in Bukoba, on Wednesday morning, it was very beautiful, and here is the view.



Here is a picture of our boat, taken from the upper deck, as we approached Bukoba.

Monday, May 14, 2007

Monday, 7th May 2007

To: Mwanza

Arrived in Mwanza in the early afternoon. Well, early for me, it was about 3:30. Learned that my boat won't leave till 10:00 p.m. tomorrow night, so have time to see a bit of Mwanza. Mwanza is a very nice and clean town. I'd love to come back and visit for a whole week some time.

Guess what? Blackjack isn't really that much fun. Got all excited when I saw the word CASINO in nice, bright (neon, no less) lights, right next door to my hotel. But ... blackjack has lost its umph. It is amazing to hear me saying this because I used to love blackjack! Got all excited, just at the thought of it! Well, alas, I guess tastes change. I used to love to try to dig a hole to China too, but that was before I started looking at globes, and realized I'd never make it to China.

At the blackjack table tonight, where I sat and played for several hours, there was a guy and his 2 friends. This fellow was apparently the expert blackjack player, so kept advising his friends on whether to hit or not. Ho hum. The best part about the evening was the free drinks.

-------------- TODAY ------------ TOTAL
Cycled ------- 65 k (41 mi) -------- 5,115 km (3,203 mi)
Lift ------------ 0 ----------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total --------- 65 km (41 mi) ------ 7,775 km (4,971 mi)
In Saddle ----- 5 hours 2 min ------ 345 hours 56 min
Ascended ----- 683 feet ------------ 90,944 feet

Sunday, 6th May 2007

To: Mabuki, Tanzania

Woo hooooo! Long day today, with the loaded down bike and all! Felt tired but good.

---------------- TODAY ------------- TOTAL
Cycled ---------- 108 km (67 mi) ----- 5,050 km (3,162 mi)
Lift --------------- 0 ------------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total ----------- 108 km (67 mi) ------ 7,710 km (4,930 mi)
In Saddle ------ 7 hours 50 min ------- 340 hours 54 min
Ascended ------ 920 feet -------------- 90,261 feet

Saturday, 5th May 2007

To: Shinyaga

Boarded the train in Dodoma, headed for Tabora. But my cabin-mate said, "Oh, no, no, no, no. You don't want to ride your bike from Tabora." I've heard people say these kind of things before, so I just chuckled. But the more she described it, it didn't sound too great. Maram road, lots of ditches and potholes, no major town until Shinyaga...

So, ended up staying on the train until Shinyaga, arriving there Sunday morning. Will ride the bike from here to Mwanza over the next couple of days.

By the way, my first class train ride? Left something to be desired. Makes me worry about my life long goal to ride the trans-Siberian train from Moscow to Vladivostok. What if the Russian trains are like the Tanzanian ones? Well, at least they had nice clean sheets in my cabin. We slept 2 to a cabin. It cost about $33 from Dodoma to Shinyaga, an overnight train ride. The best part about the ride was standing by the window out in the corridor and hanging my head out. Lots of others were doing the same. That was fun, but you couldn't do it all day long. Here are some photos from the train ride. In the second one, some enterprising ladies came out to meet us at a train station, and they were selling beans and rice. They had lots of takers, good business.

Friday, 4th May 2007

To: Dodoma

Made it to Dodoma. Somehow I thought I was going someplace. Was all excited to get to - Dodoma! The capital of Tanzania! Harrumph! Dodoma is not a destination one should ever strive to get to. Mbeya was much greater.

I tried to find the hotel where we had camped as a group, when we came through here with TDA about a month ago, but I couldn't remember the name of it. It was nice. There was an outdoor bar attached, with a pool table. It was nice, but I couldn't find it. Instead, I stayed at the Dodoma Hotel, right across the road from the train station. It was fine.

----------------- TODAY ------------------ TOTAL
Cycled --------- 76 km (48 mi) ------------- 4,942 km (3,095 mi)
Lift ---------------- 0 ------------------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total ----------- 76 km (48 mi) ------------- 7,602 km (4,863 mi)
In Saddle ------- 5 hours 40 min ------------ 333 hours 4 min
Ascended ------- 540 feet ------------------ 89,341 feet

Thursday, 3rd May 2007

To: Kongwa

New plan - bike to Dodoma. According to the owner of the guest house I stayed in, the next train from Dodoma to Tobora doesn't leave until Saturday. Today is Thursday, so I can take 2 days to cycle the 140 km to Dodoma.

I rode to Kongwa today. Nothing too special and it was flat, flat, flat. Nice and easy. I missed the hills in Morogoro. That is a shame as the hills are fun.

--------------- TODAY -------------- TOTAL
Cycled ------- 68 km (43 mi) --------- 4,866 km (3,047 mi)
Lift ------------- 0 --------------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total --------- 68 km (43 mi) --------- 7,526 km (4,815 mi)
In Saddle ----- 4 hours 10 min -------- 327 hours 24 min
Ascended ----- 380 feet -------------- 88,801 feet

Tuesday, May 8, 2007

Wednesday, 2nd May 2007

To: Gairo

Gairo is almost, but not quite, Dodoma. Boarded the killer bus at 5:30 a.m. (yes, you read correctly - yaawwwn!), headed for Dodoma. Well, it didn't actually become a killer bus until about 6:00 p.m., just after we left Morogoro, and it started raining. Shortly after that, at one point, the bus driver maniacally drove off the road to the left and his 2 left tires were on the shoulder, off the road, and it was raining, and I screamed. I couldn't help it. It wasn't a calculated scream. It was just one of those things where you think, "I'm about to die, what should I do? I know ... SCREAM!" So, before I had a chance to weigh over my actions, out came the scream. People looked at me. They seemed to think that my scream was more strange than their bus maniacally driving off the road.

But then I calmed down. But then it happened again - off the road again! This time, I said, "Oh, Jesus!" Or, I might have said, "Oh, shit!" I don't remember exactly. I was wondering whether our bus driver was drunk. After it happened for the third time, I even started asking my fellow passengers whether they thought he was drunk. A man across the isle from me tried to calm me by saying, "Don't worry. His tires are just slipping."

Do you think that calmed me? No, of course not! O.k., maybe he's not drunk, he's just driving way too fast on slippery roads, with bald tires. At this point, it was really raining hard, and it had even become dark. Sometimes, the driver was weaving into the right-hand lane (lane for on-coming traffic), and other times, he was weaving off the road. I kept asking the driver to please slow down. He didn't seem to be listening. His conductors seemed to think that his driving was perfectly reasonable. My friend across the isle kept saying that I should be calm, though by now, I did notice that some of the other passengers were looking worriedly out the front window.

I finally said, "I've got to get off this bus! It's a killer machine!" (I didn't say the "it's a killer machine" part, I just thought it - I didn't want to scare the other passengers, who generally seemed just fine with this driving.) But now it was dark and we were in the middle of nowhere. If I got off here, where would I go? But I didn't care. I'd rather be food for the wolves or whatever is out there. I started saying, "Please stop the bus. I have to get off." Finally, we came to the town of Gairo, and they stopped the bus and I got off. To my great shock, no other passengers followed my lead. Maybe they all thought it was really important to get to Dodoma, just because that was what they'd started off to do. I, however, decided that Dodoma could wait until tomorrow.

When I walked to the only decent little guest house in town, to my dismay, it was fully booked. I had seen another guest house, but didn't really want to go there because I was worried that I would have rat company during the night. Mind you, I get rat company at Annet's house too sometimes, and that doesn't bother me so much because she always teases me about it, but I didn't really want the rat company when I was all by myself. So, the receptionist of this nice guest house, who was a very nice young man, told me to wait because the owner should be there soon and he might be able to help me. So, I waited. And had a coke. And bought the receptionist a coke. And, what the heck, when his wife came out of her room, I bought the receptionist's wife a coke too. And we waited.

After half an hour, the owner came. He was really nice when I explained that I really liked his guest house so wasn't there anything we could do? In the end, he went home and picked up a mattress. Brought it back to the guest house and set it up in the reception area for me to sleep on, with nice clean sheets, on a nice clean floor. Aaahhhhh, how nice! But then things got better. The nice receptionist gentleman said that he couldn't have me sleeping in the reception area, all by myself, so he offered up his apartment (with his wife and daughter, Happy), while he took the reception area. So, I slept the night with the wife and Happy. At first, the wife and Happy were sleeping on a little bed, right next to the main bed. But they didn't have a mosquito net and I worried about Happy, who was only about 2 years old. So, I lifted up the mosquito net and gently pulled Happy under, and the wife seemed happy with that and didn't object. So, I was sleeping with this little 2-year-old and worried and hoping I wouldn't roll over on her. But I needn't have worried. That little kid took up a lot of space! At least 3 times during the night, I woke up, right on the edge of the bed, about to fall off, and Happy was right there by my side so I couldn't move back over. I'd have to gently push Happy over and then I'd get back in the middle of the bed. But, a couple of hours later, I'd find myself back on the edge of the bed, and we'd have to do it all over again.

All was o.k., though. At least I had a nice clean place to sleep.

Oh, and guess what? When the owner came back with his mattress last night, guess what he told me? That a bus had just recently had an accident, just outside of town, it had tipped over. He'd heard about it in town. I'm not saying that it was my bus because I'm not sure - but what if it was???

Tuesday, 1st May 2007

In Mbeya

Woo hoo hoo hoooooo! My phone works! As of approximately 1:00 p.m., today. I received a phone call from vodocom in Dar es Salaam, saying, please try your phone, we think we've solved the problem. I tried it and ... wooo hoooooo! At the 11th hour, they decided to get it together and make the phone work. Turns out my phone number wasn't in their database or some crazy thing like that.

George showed back up at the Royal Zambezi tonight. So we said our farewells and he said he was going to come visit in Uganda sometime soon. Yeah, right.

Tuesday, May 1, 2007

Monday, 30th April 2007

In Mbeya

Spent most of the day, going in and out of the vodocom shop, to check on the phone progress. By the end of the day, the phone still wasn't working, but the problem had been escalated to a higher level.

Some point in the day, however, I decided, "O.k., maybe I've made my point about the phone. I could be here for the next month and it still won't work!" So, I went off to buy a bus ticket to Dodoma. From Dodoma, I will take train to Togora, and from there, ride my bike to Mwanza (5 or 6 days). From Mwanza, take a boat half-way across Lake Victoria, and then ride the bike the last 4-5 days to get home. At least, that's the plan. Wanted to leave tomorrow, but there is no direct bus to Dodoma tomorrow. So, I bought a ticket for early Wednesday morning. Working phone or not, time to say good-bye to Mbeya.

... And the answer is! .... WIFE!

Met up with The Man, whom I have now learned that his name is Joseph, and he took me to his home. We stayed at the home for a while and he and the wife, named Marieta, showed me their photo albums - specifically, the big photo album of their wedding, which took place 10 or 12 years ago. Here is a photo of me, Joseph, and Marieta, on their sofa. If I ever see George again, which I haven't seen him for 2 days because he's gone off to some other town and is apparently coming back tomorrow, I'll have to let him know that we were wrong.

Sunday, 29th April 2007

In Mbeya

Got out of bed at 12:00 today. Can't say that I woke up at 12:00 since I'd actually been lying there in bed, not really sleeping, for a while. At 12:00, however, I heard the receptionist and another room cleaner, out in the hallway, saying something about the mzungu. (That would be me.) I thought, "They are probably wondering why I'm still in my room and they can't clean it." So, I put on some shorts and t-shirt and opened the door with a smile, though my hair was dishevelled.

When I opened that door, the receptionist and room cleaner immediately started smiling, giggling, and teasing me! It's funny how a single event can change a person's perspective. I have to say something about that receptionist. From the day I arrived (which was how many days ago, now? I'm losing track), she has always looked bored and none-too-happy, every time she saw me. I'd come and go, ask her for my breakfast pass in the morning, she'd give it to me but without a smile or a word. I'd thought she might be annoyed with me for complaining about the lack of t.v. remote control the first night, but it is possible that she is just a lady who likes to be bored and not look happy.

But this morning! Like night and day! All of a sudden, she is laughing with me, and suggesting remedies for hang-overs. "Drink cold coke," she said. She's now patting me on the arm and smiling in order to comfort my apparent hang-over. Truth be known is that I didn't actually have a hang-over, I hadn't really drunk all that much last night, considering the length of the night. But she seemed so happy with the notion of it that I didn't want to disappoint her by telling her I felt just fine. So I just smiled and laughed and let her go on and suggest her hang-over remedies.

When I left for the day, she waved and called with a smile and new twinkle in her eye, "Bye!"

Didn't do much today. It's Sunday and the only reason I'm still in Mbeya is the phone. Vodocom and MTN (the Ugandan telephone network) are now working on the problem in a consolidated effort, but the latest news, as of yesterday afternoon, is that they can't make any more progress until Monday.

In the evening, went down to the Royal Zambezi for pool (4th night in a row now) and found The Man. He seemed pleased to see me and we played together and he invited me to come to his home the next night, and then pick up the "madam" and go out.

O.k. ... we'll see what happens tomorrow. Is she girlfriend? Or wife?

Saturday, 28th April 2007

In Mbeya

Spent the morning hours in the vodocom shop, trying to get the phone working. This has now become a mission. I could solve the problem by buying another simcard, a Tanzanian one. But, according to the latest huge advertisement campaign, my Ugandan simcard is supposed to work anywhere in East Africa. This includes Tanzania and Kenya. So, I'm staying in Mbeya until the phone works! I know that's a bit hot-headed, but I can be like that sometimes. So, spent the day in the office of my friend, the vodocom man, again.

In the evening, I went into the pub of the Royal Zambezi and started playing pool with the same people that I'd played with for the last 2 nights in a row. George showed up again. He hadn't been there last night.

I was now having a great time with George, and there was another man there with what appeared to be a very bored woman. The man was playing pool with me and George, and we were having a great time ... but the woman looked extremely bored. George and I occasionally gossiped about the two of them.

I asked George, "Do you think that's his wife?"

George said, "No. That's a girlfriend. The wife is at home." I agreed with George's analysis of the situation.

I said, "Yes, his wife is probably at home taking care of the 13 children."

George chuckled.

At some point in the evening, George and I had agreed to go off later to the oldies music and dance place. At some point, George also felt the need to let me know that he was 36 years old, 3 children, and divorced since "1998 ... no, wait ... 2002." I wasn't real sure how you could forget the year you were divorced, but let it go, because I didn't care that much.

It was at this point, however, that I decided to shock George by just going ahead and saying, "I'm having a nice time, chatting and playing with you and our friend over there with the 13 children, and his girlfriend. Going out to the Mbeya Hotel later sounds fun too. But maybe we can just set some ground rules, so that we don't have to think about them any more. At the end of the night, we are not sleeping together."

This shocked George no end, but he was happy to go ahead and discuss it for the next 45 minutes. I didn't think it needed 45 minutes of discussion, but that's o.k. Finally, around 11:00 p.m., the man with the 13 children at home lost his final game of pool (to me, I must add), bid his farewells, and he and his girlfriend left. About 5 minutes later, George and I left too, to go find a taxi. When we got out to the carpark, however, the man with the 13 children and the girlfriend drove up. He and George talked a bit, and the next thing you knew, all 4 of us had decided to go out together.

The man with the 13 children and wife at home, and George, being the men, were deciding where we should go. I kept piping in from the backseat, "Mbeya Hotel. The whole town will be there tonight. Oldies music." The girlfriend in the front seat was just sitting there quietly, like a proper woman. Finally, we ended up going to a place that was not the Mbeya Hotel. To placate me, however, George said that if this place wasn't good, we'd move on. (I'm making jokes about poor George, but he was actually quite nice and charming, and I later decided that the story about the divorced wife and the 3 kids, all in boarding schools, might even be true.)

So, we went in and it wasn't good. We could see that as soon as we walked in. There was a live band, but they were bad, and very few people were dancing. I wanted to walk right back out and go to Mbeya Hotel, the happening place for the night. By now, I even had the girlfriend on my side, though she wasn't too vocal about it. But when I'd mention "Mbeya Hotel", she'd look at me and nod and grin and say "uh-huh". But the men forced us to all sit down and have one-one. As long as we were sitting there, the girlfriend asked George if it was o.k. if she danced with me, to which George gave permission, so we danced a bit. Then, George and the man with the 13 children danced. So far, there was no male-female dancing, but that would come.

The men finally admitted that their place was a dud, so we went to ... Mbeya Hotel! We walked into Mbeya Hotel and right away I liked the music. The men sat us women down in the lounge outside of the dancing area, while they went in to make an advance mission to see if there were any tables or whether we wanted to stay. So, I tried chatting with the girlfriend, which was a bit tricky because she knows 6 words of English and I know 6 words of Swahili, and at least 2 of our words overlapped, giving us a grand total vocabulary of 8 words. However, we did find something to do. It's that bonding thing that women often like to do together. We went to the loo. Then, we bonded some more as we both walked into the loo and made grimacing faces at each other, as we tried not to touch any disgusting filth. In general, as the evening wore on, I was starting to like this woman, and she was becoming a bit more lively.

When we got back from the loo, the men were also there and they didn't think they liked the dance place very much. So, they said, "Why don't you two go in and see if you like it?" But when we tried to go in, we were stopped by the man selling tickets and he wouldn't let us pass. So we just came back. But it turns out that the man with the 13 children and wife at home was some muckedy-muck (or at least he thought he was, and quite a few people seemed to know him), so he said, "That's ridiculous." He took me by the hand and said, "Let's go dance," and he led me right past the man selling the tickets. The man selling tickets, however, followed us out onto the dance floor and had a lengthy discussion with the man with a wife and 13 children at home, about my lack of ticket. In the end, the man with the 13 children and wife won out, and the ticket seller retreated, and allowed us to dance.

The music was great, and guess what?! He was a great dancer ... and! He could dance the cha-cha! Couldn't believe it! A Tanzanian, dancing the bloody cha-cha! Embarrassed me slightly, since I can't dance the cha-cha. But I gave it a go and it's pretty easy, really, as long as you just do the basic steps and don't try anything fancy. I decided I was kind of liking this man-with-a-wife-and-13-children-at-home-who-was-now-shunning-his-girlfriend-to-dance-with-me.

But what about George and the girlfriend, who were out in the lounge area, because apparently George (who was also charming in his own sweet way) did not have enough clout to say "that's ridiculous" and lead anybody past the ticket seller? So, "the man" (for short) and I didn't dance all that long before coming back out to the lounge. Then, the music only lasted another 10-15 minutes before the evening was over at the Mbeya Hotel.

So, we all went out to the car and drove off to a place called "Mama"-something-or-other, a disco. I have a question. What is it with adolescent men that they think it is normal or cool, to dance around while holding their testicles? Many of the young ones out there on the dance floor were doing that, and this isn't the first time I've seen it. I've noticed it lately on music videos as well. What's with that? It's not cool. It looks idiotic. O.k., though, leave that one alone...

At the disco, we all danced a lot for several hours. Mainly me with George and the girlfriend with The Man, but we sometimes mixed it up a bit. Fortunately, sweet and charming George did no such thing as to dance while holding his testicles, and just danced nicely, like a gentleman. Also, do you want to hear some good news? I think it is *possible*, though I'm not quite sure, that George and I had our analysis wrong. This woman might actually be the man's wife! At least, she said she was and so did he, and they apparently have 2 children, not 13. Here is a picture of the two of them dancing. If it is true that they really were husband and wife, well, then, I was started to like them more and more. Not that we weren't already having fun, but having fun and actually liking people are two different things.

Finally, at 4:00 a.m., The Man and his (girlfriend? wife?) dropped me and George off at the Royal Zambezi and they went home. They told me, however, that they would like me to come visit them in their home, which makes me think more and more that they might really be married.

I cannot remember the last time I was out till 4:00 a.m. I don't do that! But George and I walked up the steps to the reception and the receptionist (the same one who never gave me a t.v. remote control the other day) woke up and gave George his room key, and I already had my room key, and we went to our respective rooms to sleep. True to the plan (well, my plan, at least), we didn't sleep together.