In Mbeya
Stayed in Mbeya in order to accomplish some errands. My only bike riding was riding around Mbeya and back and forth to my lodge. The errands included:
1.) Get a new tire for my bike (as the ones that had been sent from the U.S. had been donated to TDA, because we couldn't find them on top of the truck when I left in Lilongwe) - tick!
2.) Do some internetting and blogging - tick!
3.) Make my phone work so that I can make phone calls, as I'm supposed to be able to do within East Africa - NOT tick!
However, while spending hours in the vodocom (Tanzanian telephone network) shop, trying to get my phone sorted, I did become friendly with the fellow who was trying to help. A loudspeaker on a truck kept going by outside, advertising oldies music at the Mbeya Hotel for the next night (Saturday). I asked him if he was planning to go and he said "yes". I said that I'd really like to leave the next day, but that if he insists on not getting my phone to work, then I may have to stay, in which case we may see each other at the dance place.
By the end of the day, my phone was not working properly.
-------------------- TODAY ---------------- TOTAL
Cycled ------------- 12 km (8 mi) ----------- 4,798 km (3,004 mi)
Lift ------------------ 0 --------------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total -------------- 12 km (8 mi) ------------ 7,458 km (4,772 mi)
Monday, April 30, 2007
Thursday, 26th April 2007
To: Mbeya
The first 18 km or so were much more downhill than up, so lots of fun riding. Started at an elevation of 5,000 feet in Tukuyu and dropped to 4,300 feet ... before seeing a sign that said "Alert! Road ascends for next 8 km!" I ascended for 1 or 2 km, and then the rain started. This time, I was not lucky enough to be near a town, but there was a house with a woodpile and a covering over the wood pile. Dashed in and sat on some wood! Only sat on that wood about 1 minute, however, before the owner of the house came out and invited me in. O.k.! This wood's not all that comfortable anyway (not that I was complaining). The people in the house were friendly and invited me into their living room. We talked a bit about the unemployment problem in Tanzania, but they didn't speak very good English, they spoke Swahili which I don't know, so conversation was limited.
When the rain stopped, I went back outside to continue my 8 km climb (or so I thought). I was doing some mental math and thinking that by the end of the 8 km, I'd probably be at the point where I would descend nicely all the rest of the way to Mbeya.
And then. Hahaha! Cruel joke alert! When we were coming the other way, don't I remember Jack telling us that we'd start off from Mbeya with a 25 km climb? O.k., so being the bright one that I am, I managed to put that in reverse and figure I'd end the day with a 25 km what? ... DESCENT! Well, the nice little 8 km climb turned into a 9 km climb and then a 10 km climb, and then eventually I stopped counting every km, but I did get very very tired. In fact, when I finally actually was towards the top, I came upon a group of women carrying wood on their heads and walking. I passed them. But at that point, I'd taken to stopping every 1/2 km to rest because I was very tired and it was steep and I was in granny geer and I was carrying a heavy load. So, every time I rested, they'd pass me. Then, I'd start up again and pass them. We started smiling at each other each time, but I was getting more and more tired and wondering "WHEN do I get to start my 25 km descent?" and smiling took energy.
Eventually, I passed another cyclist, who was walking his bike. But then, when I stopped to rest, he passed me again. He said, "Don't worry, you're almost there. Just 2 more turns." That gave me hope, but I still had to rest one more time before finishing those 2 turns.
I want to say, for the record, that the 25 km climb out of Mbeya that Jack had announced 1 month earlier in a rider meeting? It was 16 km, not 25. For those of you reading this, you may think, what difference does it make? 16, 25 - aren't they almost the same? NO, climbing another 9 km past the point where you thought you were going to start whooping and hollering - that is a cruel joke. I climbed to a total elevation of 7,500 feet before starting to descend. But then ... yeeeee haaaawwww! It was so much fun! Just cruised into Mbeya! By the time I got there, I wasn't even tired any more, just exhilerated!
Stayed at a place called the "Royal Zambezi", chosen because of its bar that includes 2 busy pool tables. Met George and his friend. George was staying at the same lodge, and I met him when I was checking in and asking the receptionist where the remote control for my t.v. was. Just as we were having this discussion about how I want my remote control, in walked George. He was nice, so we decided to go have dinner together down at the bar with the pool tables. Turned into a night of pool playing with George and others - fun. (Though I never did get my remote control.)
------------------- TODAY -------------- TOTAL
Cycled ------------ 71 km (44 mi) -------- 4,786 km (2,996 mi)
Lift ----------------- 0 -------------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total -------------- 71 km (44 mi) -------- 7,446 km (4,764 mi)
In Saddle --------- 6 hours 18 min -------- 322 hours 14 min
Ascended --------- 3,006 feet ------------- 88,221 feet
The first 18 km or so were much more downhill than up, so lots of fun riding. Started at an elevation of 5,000 feet in Tukuyu and dropped to 4,300 feet ... before seeing a sign that said "Alert! Road ascends for next 8 km!" I ascended for 1 or 2 km, and then the rain started. This time, I was not lucky enough to be near a town, but there was a house with a woodpile and a covering over the wood pile. Dashed in and sat on some wood! Only sat on that wood about 1 minute, however, before the owner of the house came out and invited me in. O.k.! This wood's not all that comfortable anyway (not that I was complaining). The people in the house were friendly and invited me into their living room. We talked a bit about the unemployment problem in Tanzania, but they didn't speak very good English, they spoke Swahili which I don't know, so conversation was limited.
When the rain stopped, I went back outside to continue my 8 km climb (or so I thought). I was doing some mental math and thinking that by the end of the 8 km, I'd probably be at the point where I would descend nicely all the rest of the way to Mbeya.
And then. Hahaha! Cruel joke alert! When we were coming the other way, don't I remember Jack telling us that we'd start off from Mbeya with a 25 km climb? O.k., so being the bright one that I am, I managed to put that in reverse and figure I'd end the day with a 25 km what? ... DESCENT! Well, the nice little 8 km climb turned into a 9 km climb and then a 10 km climb, and then eventually I stopped counting every km, but I did get very very tired. In fact, when I finally actually was towards the top, I came upon a group of women carrying wood on their heads and walking. I passed them. But at that point, I'd taken to stopping every 1/2 km to rest because I was very tired and it was steep and I was in granny geer and I was carrying a heavy load. So, every time I rested, they'd pass me. Then, I'd start up again and pass them. We started smiling at each other each time, but I was getting more and more tired and wondering "WHEN do I get to start my 25 km descent?" and smiling took energy.
Eventually, I passed another cyclist, who was walking his bike. But then, when I stopped to rest, he passed me again. He said, "Don't worry, you're almost there. Just 2 more turns." That gave me hope, but I still had to rest one more time before finishing those 2 turns.
I want to say, for the record, that the 25 km climb out of Mbeya that Jack had announced 1 month earlier in a rider meeting? It was 16 km, not 25. For those of you reading this, you may think, what difference does it make? 16, 25 - aren't they almost the same? NO, climbing another 9 km past the point where you thought you were going to start whooping and hollering - that is a cruel joke. I climbed to a total elevation of 7,500 feet before starting to descend. But then ... yeeeee haaaawwww! It was so much fun! Just cruised into Mbeya! By the time I got there, I wasn't even tired any more, just exhilerated!
Stayed at a place called the "Royal Zambezi", chosen because of its bar that includes 2 busy pool tables. Met George and his friend. George was staying at the same lodge, and I met him when I was checking in and asking the receptionist where the remote control for my t.v. was. Just as we were having this discussion about how I want my remote control, in walked George. He was nice, so we decided to go have dinner together down at the bar with the pool tables. Turned into a night of pool playing with George and others - fun. (Though I never did get my remote control.)
------------------- TODAY -------------- TOTAL
Cycled ------------ 71 km (44 mi) -------- 4,786 km (2,996 mi)
Lift ----------------- 0 -------------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total -------------- 71 km (44 mi) -------- 7,446 km (4,764 mi)
In Saddle --------- 6 hours 18 min -------- 322 hours 14 min
Ascended --------- 3,006 feet ------------- 88,221 feet
Wednesday, 25th April 2007
To: Tukuyu
If any of my old TDA friends are reading this, they may remember the fun riding day from Mbeya to just past the Malawian border. Remember all that downhill cruising?
So, here I was, going the other direction. It's o.k., since I'd been stressed out about getting to the border on time the first time, so I hadn't even ridden - I'd taken a bus. Now, here I was, riding it, but in the opposite direction! Let's just say that there was a lot of climbing. Climbed, all day long, and made it half-way to Mbeya. Slept at the wonderful Landmark Hotel in Tukuyu, and had fun chatting with some people over at a recommended nightclub, about 200 meters from the hotel.
But I'll start from the beginning. I woke up early and went to the border and discovered that the man at the Malawi exit control knew me and I knew him. How? He'd been playing pool with me last night! So, we chatted a bit and he waved me through and told me he hoped I'd come back soon.
Then ... climb, climb, climb ... no reprieve ... until ... the pig place! I don't even know what the
name of this little village was, but I pulled over when I saw activity and pulled into this ... place. I don't even know how to describe it, so I'll post 2 pictures that I hope will help. Let's just say that I knew very few people who would actually dare to eat at this place. But took a seat on a little bench with a wobbly table of sorts, ordered a soda and some pig and had a grand ol' time. I love street food and I think I'm 
lucky because my stomach is a bit tough, so I rarely get sick. I think it might stem from my mom's motto when we were young and camping that "a little dirt or ashes in the stew is good for you, so don't complain." It is good for you! It toughens up your stomach! Haha.
So, well, I ordered some pig and they wacked it off the hog (shown in photos) and grilled it. Mmmm, delicious! I shared some with the lady in this second photo, and the boy in the photo is a secondary student who asked me to send him his picture, so I'll have to try to do that.
After 30 or 45 minutes, however, alas, I moved on. Climbed and climbed, slowly, until it started to drizzle and then started to rain fairly hard ... just as I was lucky enough to be entering the town limits of the town of Shirika! I darted my eyes around quickly, trying to see a nice little place to go hole up for a bit and wait for the rain to stop. But as I was darting my eyes, the rain started coming down harder, so I finally just dashed over to a bench on a porch, outside a teansy little shop. It wasn't the greatest spot to hole up, but it was dry because of the overhang. It soon became very crowded on my little bench as others had the same idea of sitting there to get out of the rain. That was o.k. We all had a common purpose and there was a feeling of comraderie as we tried to stay dry. Eventually, the rain let up a
bit, and some people started wandering back out. That's when I took this photo, looking out from my little spot in front of the shop - in Shirika.
When I thought the rain may have stopped long enough for me to make it to Tukuyu, I took off. Only rode about 1/2 km, however, and was only on the outskirts of town, when it started raining again. Determined not to ride in the rain, I pulled over, this time at a nice place with tables and chairs. Stayed there for a good 2 hours, and was making jokes with the other customers that I was NOT going out in that rain! If it didn't stop raining, well then, I'd just sleep right there! (There was a lodge attached to the place where I had now taken refuge.)
About 5:30, it did stop raining, so I left. Only had about 10 km to go to get to Tukuyu, but those 10 km took me nearly an hour - climbed. In fact, I don't think it was ever flat or downhill the entire day. (O.k., it may have been flat as I rode through Shirika.)
Got to Tukuyu and went to the Landmark Hotel, which had been recommended to me. It was quite nice and cost 20,000 shillings (about $18). In the evening, wandered over to a nearby nightclub and chatted with some local people, which was fun.
------------------- TODAY --------------- TOTAL
Cycled ------------ 47 km (29 mi) --------- 4,715 km (2,952 mi)
Lift ---------------- 0 ---------------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total -------------- 47 km (29 mi) --------- 7,375 km (4,720 mi)
In Saddle ---------- 5 hours 15 min -------- 315 hours 56 min
Ascended ---------- 3,113 feet ------------- 85,215 feet
If any of my old TDA friends are reading this, they may remember the fun riding day from Mbeya to just past the Malawian border. Remember all that downhill cruising?
So, here I was, going the other direction. It's o.k., since I'd been stressed out about getting to the border on time the first time, so I hadn't even ridden - I'd taken a bus. Now, here I was, riding it, but in the opposite direction! Let's just say that there was a lot of climbing. Climbed, all day long, and made it half-way to Mbeya. Slept at the wonderful Landmark Hotel in Tukuyu, and had fun chatting with some people over at a recommended nightclub, about 200 meters from the hotel.
But I'll start from the beginning. I woke up early and went to the border and discovered that the man at the Malawi exit control knew me and I knew him. How? He'd been playing pool with me last night! So, we chatted a bit and he waved me through and told me he hoped I'd come back soon.
Then ... climb, climb, climb ... no reprieve ... until ... the pig place! I don't even know what the
name of this little village was, but I pulled over when I saw activity and pulled into this ... place. I don't even know how to describe it, so I'll post 2 pictures that I hope will help. Let's just say that I knew very few people who would actually dare to eat at this place. But took a seat on a little bench with a wobbly table of sorts, ordered a soda and some pig and had a grand ol' time. I love street food and I think I'm 
lucky because my stomach is a bit tough, so I rarely get sick. I think it might stem from my mom's motto when we were young and camping that "a little dirt or ashes in the stew is good for you, so don't complain." It is good for you! It toughens up your stomach! Haha.So, well, I ordered some pig and they wacked it off the hog (shown in photos) and grilled it. Mmmm, delicious! I shared some with the lady in this second photo, and the boy in the photo is a secondary student who asked me to send him his picture, so I'll have to try to do that.
After 30 or 45 minutes, however, alas, I moved on. Climbed and climbed, slowly, until it started to drizzle and then started to rain fairly hard ... just as I was lucky enough to be entering the town limits of the town of Shirika! I darted my eyes around quickly, trying to see a nice little place to go hole up for a bit and wait for the rain to stop. But as I was darting my eyes, the rain started coming down harder, so I finally just dashed over to a bench on a porch, outside a teansy little shop. It wasn't the greatest spot to hole up, but it was dry because of the overhang. It soon became very crowded on my little bench as others had the same idea of sitting there to get out of the rain. That was o.k. We all had a common purpose and there was a feeling of comraderie as we tried to stay dry. Eventually, the rain let up a
bit, and some people started wandering back out. That's when I took this photo, looking out from my little spot in front of the shop - in Shirika.When I thought the rain may have stopped long enough for me to make it to Tukuyu, I took off. Only rode about 1/2 km, however, and was only on the outskirts of town, when it started raining again. Determined not to ride in the rain, I pulled over, this time at a nice place with tables and chairs. Stayed there for a good 2 hours, and was making jokes with the other customers that I was NOT going out in that rain! If it didn't stop raining, well then, I'd just sleep right there! (There was a lodge attached to the place where I had now taken refuge.)
About 5:30, it did stop raining, so I left. Only had about 10 km to go to get to Tukuyu, but those 10 km took me nearly an hour - climbed. In fact, I don't think it was ever flat or downhill the entire day. (O.k., it may have been flat as I rode through Shirika.)
Got to Tukuyu and went to the Landmark Hotel, which had been recommended to me. It was quite nice and cost 20,000 shillings (about $18). In the evening, wandered over to a nearby nightclub and chatted with some local people, which was fun.
------------------- TODAY --------------- TOTAL
Cycled ------------ 47 km (29 mi) --------- 4,715 km (2,952 mi)
Lift ---------------- 0 ---------------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total -------------- 47 km (29 mi) --------- 7,375 km (4,720 mi)
In Saddle ---------- 5 hours 15 min -------- 315 hours 56 min
Ascended ---------- 3,113 feet ------------- 85,215 feet
Tuesday, 24th April 2007
To: Songwe (Tanzanian Border)
Made some good riding progress today. Was very easy riding, almost completely flat, and, once again, beautiful. MALAWI IS BEAUTIFUL, north to south!
Almost only made it to yet another beautiful beachside resort, just 5 km past Karonga, today. Stopped there for a soda break and almost stayed, just like yesterday. However, after 2 hours of beauty and bliss, plus a nice chambo lunch, decided to move on.
Just as I was nearing the Tanzanian Border, it started to rain. Rain? What's that? It occurred to me how lucky I've been. Have not gotten seriously wet yet, on this entire trip. Managed to escape wetness today as well. It drizzled for about 10 minutes, then, when I was *almost there!* (maybe 500 meters to go), it started raining a bit more heavily, but within 2 minutes, I had zipped into my guesthouse-by-the-border for the night and put my bike under shelter. Phew! Avoided the rain again!
Enjoyed a wonderful evening of pool playing and chatting with my old friends of a month ago. I had stopped at this exact same place when arriving in Malawi with the TDA gang a month ago. I recognized some of the young fellows who were there, and they all asked me, "How was Malawi? How was Lilongwe? How was Thyolo?" because they'd remembered that I'd said I was going to those places. Also, the time before when I'd stopped there, I'd been in such a jubilant mood for reaching Malawi, that I'd bought a big plate of roasted meat and shared it around with everybody. They couldn't forget that. (I didn't repeat the same this time, but that's o.k.)
At one point, however, I got hungry and the little guest house where I was staying didn't have a restaurant, so somebody took me to the market to find food. When he suggested taking me to the market, I said, "What market?" He pointed toward the border, but I remembered coming through there with the gang a month ago, and there was no market there. He said, "It's behind."
Guess what?! There is a HUGE market, off to the right, as you pass through the border, coming from Tanzania toward Malawi. I mean HUGE! Completely hidden, you'd never know it was there if somebody didn't show you. Furthermore, once you go in there, border crossing is completely free and people are walking back and forth from Tanzania to Malawi, unimpeded. When my companion and I got close to going "behind" to where the market is, however, an official stopped us and asked about me. My companion told him that we were just going to the market. So he waved us through. At that point, I could have just slipped easily into Tanzania, no hassles. But I didn't. The next morning, I went through all the right channels, bought my visa, etc. Felt like a goodie-two-shoes.
Fun evening, revisiting with these young fellows whom I'd sort of "celebrated" with when I first entered Malawi.
------------------ TODAY -------------- TOTAL
Cycled ----------- 89 km (55 mi) -------- 4,668 km (2,923 mi)
Lift --------------- 0 --------------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total ------------- 89 km (55 mi) -------- 7,328 km (4,691 mi)
In Saddle --------- 5 hours 31 min ------- 310 hours 41 min
Ascended --------- 543 feet -------------- 82,102 feet
Made some good riding progress today. Was very easy riding, almost completely flat, and, once again, beautiful. MALAWI IS BEAUTIFUL, north to south!
Almost only made it to yet another beautiful beachside resort, just 5 km past Karonga, today. Stopped there for a soda break and almost stayed, just like yesterday. However, after 2 hours of beauty and bliss, plus a nice chambo lunch, decided to move on.
Just as I was nearing the Tanzanian Border, it started to rain. Rain? What's that? It occurred to me how lucky I've been. Have not gotten seriously wet yet, on this entire trip. Managed to escape wetness today as well. It drizzled for about 10 minutes, then, when I was *almost there!* (maybe 500 meters to go), it started raining a bit more heavily, but within 2 minutes, I had zipped into my guesthouse-by-the-border for the night and put my bike under shelter. Phew! Avoided the rain again!
Enjoyed a wonderful evening of pool playing and chatting with my old friends of a month ago. I had stopped at this exact same place when arriving in Malawi with the TDA gang a month ago. I recognized some of the young fellows who were there, and they all asked me, "How was Malawi? How was Lilongwe? How was Thyolo?" because they'd remembered that I'd said I was going to those places. Also, the time before when I'd stopped there, I'd been in such a jubilant mood for reaching Malawi, that I'd bought a big plate of roasted meat and shared it around with everybody. They couldn't forget that. (I didn't repeat the same this time, but that's o.k.)
At one point, however, I got hungry and the little guest house where I was staying didn't have a restaurant, so somebody took me to the market to find food. When he suggested taking me to the market, I said, "What market?" He pointed toward the border, but I remembered coming through there with the gang a month ago, and there was no market there. He said, "It's behind."
Guess what?! There is a HUGE market, off to the right, as you pass through the border, coming from Tanzania toward Malawi. I mean HUGE! Completely hidden, you'd never know it was there if somebody didn't show you. Furthermore, once you go in there, border crossing is completely free and people are walking back and forth from Tanzania to Malawi, unimpeded. When my companion and I got close to going "behind" to where the market is, however, an official stopped us and asked about me. My companion told him that we were just going to the market. So he waved us through. At that point, I could have just slipped easily into Tanzania, no hassles. But I didn't. The next morning, I went through all the right channels, bought my visa, etc. Felt like a goodie-two-shoes.
Fun evening, revisiting with these young fellows whom I'd sort of "celebrated" with when I first entered Malawi.
------------------ TODAY -------------- TOTAL
Cycled ----------- 89 km (55 mi) -------- 4,668 km (2,923 mi)
Lift --------------- 0 --------------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total ------------- 89 km (55 mi) -------- 7,328 km (4,691 mi)
In Saddle --------- 5 hours 31 min ------- 310 hours 41 min
Ascended --------- 543 feet -------------- 82,102 feet
Monday, 23rd April 2007
To: Ngala
Heading north, toward Tanzania, then Uganda. The next couple of days will be familiar territory, as we rode this same section going south, with the TDA gang!
Absolutely lovely day. Felt great to be on the bike. BUT, don't know how I'm supposed to go as far as I'm planning when there are so many great places to stop! Stopping at all the spots that we had to whizz past on our way down.
Planned to sleep in Karonga, but ended up sleeping at the marvelous Ngala Resort instead, on the lake. O.k., "resort" may be an exaggeration (though that is what they call themselves), but the $10 chalet rooms with stone showers sure were wonderful. I stopped at Ngala in the late morning, just for a soda break. I remembered going past here, on the way south, I was riding with Rachel at the time. We'd seen the sign that said "Ngala Resort" and I'd said "Hey! Resort!" but we'd both laughed because we'd only gone about 3 km since lunch at that time. 
So, we'd ridden on by without going in. Boy, did we miss something! This place is heaven on earth! Peaceful, serene, right on the beach, with a neat outdoor bar. This photo here was taken, looking out from the bar.
So, we'd ridden on by without going in. Boy, did we miss something! This place is heaven on earth! Peaceful, serene, right on the beach, with a neat outdoor bar. This photo here was taken, looking out from the bar. I planned to just sit and relax for an hour and then proceed. But one hour led to another ... and then lunch ... and then, "Can I see what the rooms are like?" ... and then, "What the hell." So, I slept there.
In the afternoon, one of the people who worked there walked me over to a about 1/2 km away, where there was a hot spring! That was neat. It was boiling hot (a fact that I know, because I put my finger in to check it out and he said "watch out!" but a second too late - no big deal).
In the evening, I saw this big ol' milipede (shown in photo). I said, "Ahh! What's that? A 
millipede!" to which one of the staff members wanted to run over and kill it. But I said, "Wait a minute! Let me get a photo first!" So, sad to say, but this photo was taken just moments before the demise of the poor millipede.
millipede!" to which one of the staff members wanted to run over and kill it. But I said, "Wait a minute! Let me get a photo first!" So, sad to say, but this photo was taken just moments before the demise of the poor millipede.------------------ TODAY ------------- TOTAL
Cycled ------------ 38 km (24 mi) ------ 4,579 km (2,868 mi)
Lift ---------------- 0 -------------------- 2,660 km (1,768 mi)
Total -------------- 38 km (24 mi) ------ 7,239 km (4,636 mi)
In Saddle ---------- 2 hours 15 min ----- 305 hours 10 min
Ascended ---------- 500 feet ------------ 81,559 feet
Friday-Sunday, 20th-22nd April 2007
Boat - Monkey Bay to Chilumba
Spent 3 days, riding the Ilala boat all the way north on Lake Malawi, from Monkey Bay to Chilumba. As I was riding my bike the 2 km from my lodge to the boat ramp on Friday morning, I came across the same cool-kat guy who'd been following me around last night. He was standing under a tree, talking with a white backpacker-looking-woman. He saw me first and said, "Hi!"
This morning, I wasn't afraid of him anymore because it was broad daylight, lots of people around, and I was about to get on the boat and leave Monkey Bay. I thought to myself, "Oh, I see you've found a new victim." I didn't say it, but should have. I just said, "Hi," and kept on going.
The next 3 days were lovely. Just relaxing on the boat, talking with fellow passengers and crew, reading. I stayed in one of the few cabins on the boat, which was really nice. Frankly, if I'd had a sleeping bag, I would have been perfectly happy sleeping on the upper deck floor, like others did, but I didn't have a sleeping bag, so the cabin was nice. No comparison between this cabin and the one we had with the TDA group as we crossed from Egypt to Sudan, by the way! The cabins on that boat had been ... ugh! The cabins on Malawi's Ilala boat were quite nice and clean.
I took quite a few pictures while on my boat voyage so I'll show a few of them here.
#1 is a view of Mozambique 
when we stopped at one of the 2 Mozambiquan ports.
when we stopped at one of the 2 Mozambiquan ports.#2 is a picture of our fine boat, the Ilala, taken when 
I got off at Likoma Island for a couple of hours. Likoma Island is one of the busiest and longest stops for the boat because this boat is one of the main sources of transport for people and goods going to/from the island.
I got off at Likoma Island for a couple of hours. Likoma Island is one of the busiest and longest stops for the boat because this boat is one of the main sources of transport for people and goods going to/from the island.#3 is a picture of Ruarwe, with a curious local 
paddling out in his canoe to see us better. Ruarwe is a small lakeside village that can only be reached by boat or footpath. No roads go to Ruarwe.
paddling out in his canoe to see us better. Ruarwe is a small lakeside village that can only be reached by boat or footpath. No roads go to Ruarwe.#4 is a picture of Moses, an engineer whom I 
made friends with on the boat. Nice fellow, we had some good laughs, and a long discussion one afternoon over whether drinking alcohol was "moral". He thought not, but that's o.k. In the background behind Moses is the port of Nkhata Bay.
made friends with on the boat. Nice fellow, we had some good laughs, and a long discussion one afternoon over whether drinking alcohol was "moral". He thought not, but that's o.k. In the background behind Moses is the port of Nkhata Bay.#5 is a picture of Arthur, with the Malawian flag waving in the background. Arthur was another nice crew member. 
When we arrived in Chilumba, after 3 days at sail, Arthur got off the boat with me and had a drink or two, before going back to duty and getting ready for the return trip (south back to Monkey Bay).
When we arrived in Chilumba, after 3 days at sail, Arthur got off the boat with me and had a drink or two, before going back to duty and getting ready for the return trip (south back to Monkey Bay).Thursday, 19th April 2007
To: Monkey Bay
Took a minibus to Mangochi, and then rode the bike from Mangochi to Monkey Bay. When I boarded the minibus in Zomba, they said it was a direct trip to Mangochi. I paid 500 kwacha of the 650 that I owed them and said I'd give the remaining 150 when I found change. When we were about half-way to Mangochi, the minibus pulled over in a minibus park and we were all supposed to get off and get on another minibus. I was none-too-pleased about this event, because it meant transferring my bags, my bike, and me, which was a nuisance. Furthermore, in the original minibus, I had been one of the first people to board, so I had a prime front seat and was comfortable. This new minibus was very, very crowded and I was cramped in the middle of it, holding my bags (which had been under the seat on the original minibus).
Nonetheless, there we were, ready to go. But then the old minibus guys came to the window and asked for their remaining 150 kwacha. I told them I wasn't giving it to them because they renigged on their deal. That minibus was supposed to be direct to Mangochi and now here we were, transferring.
They said, "It's the same thing."
I said, "No, it isn't. I was comfortable before and now I'm not."
They said, "We agreed on a price of 650 kwacha."
I said, "And we agreed that we were going direct with no transfers."
This went on for a bit and in the end, I paid them (of course). However, before paying them, the entire (crowded) minibus of passengers had gotten into the debate. Should the mzungu have to pay the remaining 150 kwacha, or not? Most seemed to think that I shouldn't because it was true that they had renigged on the deal. Some people were even yelling at the original minibus guys, saying, "You think you can always get away with this! But you can't! We are not cattle!" Others, however, thought I should pay on the basis that I had a lot of money anyway. I found that to be an irrelevant argument.
In the end, I paid, but even as we drove off, a few passengers were telling me that I shouldn't have. However, we were going to sit there all day long, waiting on that crowded minibus and not
moving, if I hadn't paid the remaining fare. I tried to get a picture of how crowded this bus was, from the inside, but it was so crowded that I really couldn't get a good shot. Here is what I got. (That guy had to pay extra to bring his mattress on-board, taking up a potential passenger seat.)
Got to Monkey Bay just as it was getting dark because it took longer than I thought from Mangochi. No problem. But then a young cool-kat man approached me, doing a lot of wiggling of his body and arms as he talked to me and talking jive.
He said, "Hey, wow, like cool. Where you going? I'll help."
I totally did not want his help because he was annoying and I didn't like him, and I didn't trust him either. I said, "I'm o.k., thanks." But he kept following me with his bike, telling me that he was going my way, anyway, etc. I kept trying to shoo him away, but he stuck to me like glue, saying things like, "Hey, cool, watcha thinkin of Malawi so far? Cool, huh?" Finally, he pointed to a lodge and said, "This is a cool place. I'll help you get a room."
I did not want his help to get me a room, in fact, I didn't even want him to know where I was staying. But it was almost dark and I didn't even know myself where I was staying yet. So I said, "I really am o.k.," and walked toward the lodge. He followed me. I said, "Are you going there, too, for some reason?"
He said, "These people are my friends. I borrowed this here bike from them. Gotta return it."
Oh, brother. I rolled my eyes. Tried to drop him but couldn't. Found the reception lady who showed me her "best" room (which was nothing like the Lilongwe Hotel - haha). The guy was STILL with us! I asked him why he was following us around. He said, "To help you talk with her. She doesn't know English."
I said, "We'll get by. It's o.k. You can leave." But he just stood there, so I asked the woman the price of the room and she said 1,200 kwacha. That's not really that much money (about $10), but it is a lot in Malawi for this dumpy room. I told her so, but she didn't say anything. I said I'd go find another place. I left. He tailed me.
Finally, when we were in the entranceway to the lodge, I said to the guy to please go away. I did not want his help. Thank you. Frankly, he was slightly scary and so I didn't want to be mean to him, so I tried to say it very, very directly, but with a smile. Finally ... he left.
I walked back out on the road, but didn't see any place else to go, so after about 5 minutes, I walked back into the very same lodge. There were some other guests there, so I walked up to one friendly looking woman and asked how much her room cost. She said 250 kwacha, single room, not self contained. The one the receptionist had shown me was a double, self contained.
The lady was very friendly, though, and I liked her right away.
She told me, "That boy you came with the first time..." and she just shook her head. "He likes to spend time with you mzungu. But he is a thief."
I laughed and said, "I know that. Thank you."
She and I went and found the receptionist who again showed me the very same room she'd shown me before and said the price was 500 kwacha. I said, "O.k., fine, I'll take it." I asked her why she had originally quoted a price of 1,200 kwacha?
She said, "That boy you were with, he is a thief and he told me to say that so that he could take the extra. And I was afraid of him."
I asked my new acquaintence if she wanted to sleep in my room, in the extra bed, because her single room was very stuffy, no windows, and very, very hot. She agreed. It turns out that the reason she was there was that the government had sponsored her and about 10 others to come to a 4-day seminar, to learn about better fertilizing and general farming techniques.
Then, I convinced my new friend to go out with me and find a pub with a pool table (of course). We did that and I played for a few hours and I was playing better than usual, so kept winning, game after game. It got the whole pub involved, as people kept trying to defeat me. That was fun. Around 9:30, my new friend and I went back to the lodge. When we got there, her fellow farmers asked her where she'd been. She smiled and told them that we'd been out having drinks and playing games. She seemed quite pleased with her outing. Of course, I bought all her drinks and snacks because she didn't have anything. No problem. It's funny. I have no problem buying people stuff or giving them money even. I just don't like to be cheated or scammed and have to hold my ground and "not be stupid" when it comes to that.
Took a minibus to Mangochi, and then rode the bike from Mangochi to Monkey Bay. When I boarded the minibus in Zomba, they said it was a direct trip to Mangochi. I paid 500 kwacha of the 650 that I owed them and said I'd give the remaining 150 when I found change. When we were about half-way to Mangochi, the minibus pulled over in a minibus park and we were all supposed to get off and get on another minibus. I was none-too-pleased about this event, because it meant transferring my bags, my bike, and me, which was a nuisance. Furthermore, in the original minibus, I had been one of the first people to board, so I had a prime front seat and was comfortable. This new minibus was very, very crowded and I was cramped in the middle of it, holding my bags (which had been under the seat on the original minibus).
Nonetheless, there we were, ready to go. But then the old minibus guys came to the window and asked for their remaining 150 kwacha. I told them I wasn't giving it to them because they renigged on their deal. That minibus was supposed to be direct to Mangochi and now here we were, transferring.
They said, "It's the same thing."
I said, "No, it isn't. I was comfortable before and now I'm not."
They said, "We agreed on a price of 650 kwacha."
I said, "And we agreed that we were going direct with no transfers."
This went on for a bit and in the end, I paid them (of course). However, before paying them, the entire (crowded) minibus of passengers had gotten into the debate. Should the mzungu have to pay the remaining 150 kwacha, or not? Most seemed to think that I shouldn't because it was true that they had renigged on the deal. Some people were even yelling at the original minibus guys, saying, "You think you can always get away with this! But you can't! We are not cattle!" Others, however, thought I should pay on the basis that I had a lot of money anyway. I found that to be an irrelevant argument.
In the end, I paid, but even as we drove off, a few passengers were telling me that I shouldn't have. However, we were going to sit there all day long, waiting on that crowded minibus and not
moving, if I hadn't paid the remaining fare. I tried to get a picture of how crowded this bus was, from the inside, but it was so crowded that I really couldn't get a good shot. Here is what I got. (That guy had to pay extra to bring his mattress on-board, taking up a potential passenger seat.)Got to Monkey Bay just as it was getting dark because it took longer than I thought from Mangochi. No problem. But then a young cool-kat man approached me, doing a lot of wiggling of his body and arms as he talked to me and talking jive.
He said, "Hey, wow, like cool. Where you going? I'll help."
I totally did not want his help because he was annoying and I didn't like him, and I didn't trust him either. I said, "I'm o.k., thanks." But he kept following me with his bike, telling me that he was going my way, anyway, etc. I kept trying to shoo him away, but he stuck to me like glue, saying things like, "Hey, cool, watcha thinkin of Malawi so far? Cool, huh?" Finally, he pointed to a lodge and said, "This is a cool place. I'll help you get a room."
I did not want his help to get me a room, in fact, I didn't even want him to know where I was staying. But it was almost dark and I didn't even know myself where I was staying yet. So I said, "I really am o.k.," and walked toward the lodge. He followed me. I said, "Are you going there, too, for some reason?"
He said, "These people are my friends. I borrowed this here bike from them. Gotta return it."
Oh, brother. I rolled my eyes. Tried to drop him but couldn't. Found the reception lady who showed me her "best" room (which was nothing like the Lilongwe Hotel - haha). The guy was STILL with us! I asked him why he was following us around. He said, "To help you talk with her. She doesn't know English."
I said, "We'll get by. It's o.k. You can leave." But he just stood there, so I asked the woman the price of the room and she said 1,200 kwacha. That's not really that much money (about $10), but it is a lot in Malawi for this dumpy room. I told her so, but she didn't say anything. I said I'd go find another place. I left. He tailed me.
Finally, when we were in the entranceway to the lodge, I said to the guy to please go away. I did not want his help. Thank you. Frankly, he was slightly scary and so I didn't want to be mean to him, so I tried to say it very, very directly, but with a smile. Finally ... he left.
I walked back out on the road, but didn't see any place else to go, so after about 5 minutes, I walked back into the very same lodge. There were some other guests there, so I walked up to one friendly looking woman and asked how much her room cost. She said 250 kwacha, single room, not self contained. The one the receptionist had shown me was a double, self contained.
The lady was very friendly, though, and I liked her right away.
She told me, "That boy you came with the first time..." and she just shook her head. "He likes to spend time with you mzungu. But he is a thief."
I laughed and said, "I know that. Thank you."
She and I went and found the receptionist who again showed me the very same room she'd shown me before and said the price was 500 kwacha. I said, "O.k., fine, I'll take it." I asked her why she had originally quoted a price of 1,200 kwacha?
She said, "That boy you were with, he is a thief and he told me to say that so that he could take the extra. And I was afraid of him."
I asked my new acquaintence if she wanted to sleep in my room, in the extra bed, because her single room was very stuffy, no windows, and very, very hot. She agreed. It turns out that the reason she was there was that the government had sponsored her and about 10 others to come to a 4-day seminar, to learn about better fertilizing and general farming techniques.
Then, I convinced my new friend to go out with me and find a pub with a pool table (of course). We did that and I played for a few hours and I was playing better than usual, so kept winning, game after game. It got the whole pub involved, as people kept trying to defeat me. That was fun. Around 9:30, my new friend and I went back to the lodge. When we got there, her fellow farmers asked her where she'd been. She smiled and told them that we'd been out having drinks and playing games. She seemed quite pleased with her outing. Of course, I bought all her drinks and snacks because she didn't have anything. No problem. It's funny. I have no problem buying people stuff or giving them money even. I just don't like to be cheated or scammed and have to hold my ground and "not be stupid" when it comes to that.
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